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Saturday 6 April 2013
Amsterdam: Day 1: Donderdag .(scribbled at 15:19 )


The best holidays are those that are filled with an abundance of galleries, wine bars and an entire good chunk of apple tart.  In a nutshell, that’s all I got up to in Amsterdam, but because I like a good internet nattering, I’m going to stretch out a few blog entries devoted to my Netherlands gallivanting because I know you all just can’t resist seeing photographs of me sizing up pieces of my own birthday cake, non?



Unflattering photograph of me stuffing my face over, let’s continue in what was the sugariest few days of my life. Prepare for many a photograph of cake and contemporary art over the following few posts. Admittedly, the breakfast I baked for my mother and I before checking in for our flight should have been a little healthier, but I was so proud of my home baked croissants* that I just couldn’t resist scoffing these on the Piccadilly line to Heathrow. If you see the previous post, I should have mentioned that I had one or two brownies left over from birthday cake shenanigans at work, so I wrapped my croissant dough around these for a new artery-destroying take on pain au chocolat. They were so immensely divine, it almost made waking up before 6am to try and cram everything into my weekend bag seem kind of worth it.


Although the inevitable feeling of travelling is quite exciting at the time, I hate packing. There’s just something about trying to plan each outfit and exactly what you’ll need for a set period of time that doesn’t quite put me at ease. Especially when you’ve got to cram it into a 12kg hand luggage allowance imposed by your airline. Thankfully, royal Dutch airlines (KLM) are pretty lenient when you go to check in, and I developed a crush on them after the complimentary stroopwaffel and brilliant red wine they serve on board. There is nothing quite like trying to navigate a new foreign language and airport when you’re a wee bit pissed.

I’ve been back in London a month now, and I’m already longing to visit again just by writing this post. The architecture is brilliant, and peeking into an estate agent window or two in Amsterdam revealed that these 17th century canal ring houses are much more affordable than any Georgian terrace in London.



The Dutch are a particularly friendly bunch too- locals actually went out of their way to ask us if we needed directions to somewhere in the city, which is utterly mind blowing. Generally, if a tourist approaches a Londoner for directions they run in the opposite direction at full speed, as their hectic schedule simply does not allow time for helping a tourist in their own city. What was more impressive, is that 10minutes into arriving at Centraal station, the hottest Dutch man ever asked to take a photograph of me when he noticed my mother was still trying to get the hang of using my DSLR. This made my day  week month. Unfortunately my hair looks ridiculously white against the background...


We spotted these seats outside our hotel, that run along adjacent to the Stedelijk Museum. They're so comfy!



We took it relatively easy after checking into our hotel on Museumplein, and stocked up at the local Albert Heijn for more stroopwaffel. Not exactly a necessity, but syrup-filled waffels are worryingly addictive in Holland. I wish a branch of this supermarket would open in England. Not only are all Dutch supermarkets stocked with an amazing amount of artisan chocolates, but this one actually stocks a wine called ‘Fat Bastard’. Oh, how delightful it would be to pop into Waitrose tomorrow afternoon and ask for a bottle of that.

I was utterly delighted that I was living next door to the Stedelijk for the next few days, so I wandered around its vast collection for the remainder of the evening. If you’re on short on time and can’t justify the €17.50 entrance fee, then pop into the gift shop for sure. There’s a plethora of bookcases dedicated to art and design, and they have a really cool selection of unique gifts for anyone. My mom was a little entranced by their home interiors section, and after buying a few little museum souvenirs I found myself leafing through a publication about Alvar Aalto.

The museum has a brilliant collection of furniture and design. This is Milkflessenlamp (Milk Bottle Lamp) by Tejo Remy, who hails from the Netherlands. Although I prefer this version that the Stedelijk have in their own collection, you can buy singular milk bottle lamps from the designer, for somewhere in the region of €120. To see his work a little closer to home, I suggest you head over to the V&A and gorm at 'You can't lay down your memories' for several minutes. It's in the National Art Library over there, and his use of reclaimed existing furniture is pretty impressive too.




I really like Joseph Kosuth's "Five Fives (to Donald Judd)" (1972. Above photograph). And there was a pretty garish wall drawing by Sol LeWitt in their upstairs gallery too, which made me feel pleasantly sick. Through the rooms dedicated to suprematism and German Expressionism, I was thrilled to walk into Matisse's "La Perruchet et la Sirène" (The Parakeet and the Mermaid, 1952-53). One of his gouache on paper works, this piece was made around the same time as his famous L'escargot. 



I was somewhat against believing all those tourist guides I’d read prior to traveling, that had said to book tables in advance wherever possible. I’m pretty happy I went along with my gut instinct, as my mother and I had no problems at all in getting a table anywhere in the city for the entire 4 days. However, I should have followed The Lonely Planet Guide’s advice in which it states that not many restaurants open past 9 or 10 at night. Of course, I’d spent far too much time with the Futurist paintings and now we were utterly famished, and restaurants were few and far between at this time.

Well, there’s this place a little further South West than Museumplein called ‘La Falote’, and it was pretty much down to the pun in the name alone that we ended up dining there...and partly because I'd spotted a few Thonet chairs at one of the back tables. Leaning towards mainly Dutch cuisine, La Falote was somewhat of a haven amongst the usual touristy streets of Amsterdam-Zuid. A cosy and intimate space, the walls are adorned with various Amsterdam ephemera and letters to Peter van der Linden , the restaurant’s owner and chef.

I was nearly swayed by vegetarian salad, but I gave into the enormous plate of potatoes that came alongside the daily special of ‘Grandma’s Fried Chicken’. Whilst I’m aware of how unappetising the name of that dish sounds, I physically can’t describe how utterly delicious it was. Based on a unique recipe concocted by dear old Peter the most incredible piece of carcass arrived drenched in a sea of rich sauces and herbs. I have never tasted roast potatoes that were this damn tasty. I’m afraid I’m not cool enough to instagram everything I eat, so you’ll just have to take my word for it!

The restaurant was pretty quiet on this Thursday evening, which meant that the waitress gave me and my mother her undivided attention (and endless baskets of garlic bread- hurrah!), but the best part was getting to know Peter van der Linden’s other craft: music. In between visits to the kitchen to check on how the chicken was cooking, Peter would come out and start playing his accordion! I thought I was fairly skilled at multitasking, but I am now sold to the next man who can cook me dinner and serenade me at the same time. Although the selection of desserts sounded pretty tempting, all those potatoes had given me a food baby so I passed on the pudding. If you’re planning a visit, I should warn you that it’s a little pricey (Grandma’s Fried Chicken cost a whopping €17, 50 each!), but totally worth it. Words cannot describe what it’s like watching your mother get serenaded by an accordionist as she tries to delicately nibble on a chicken leg.

Ps: If you remember my earlier posts at the beginning of March and the end of February about how much I was aching to try Cocomaya’s Liqorice and Hemp Dark Chocolate… Well, I persisted for 4 days straight  trying to finish this bar and I couldn’t even eat more than a few lines of it. It tasted absolutely vile, and after a brief spell trying to not regurgitate it, I can safely say I’ve been put off liquorice altogether. That said, Cocomaya do a Paris Tarte Tatin Chocolate too, so there’s always room for further chocolate based experimentation.

*okay, so they weren’t entirely homemade. I’d discovered Jus-Roll’s ready-to-roll croissant dough in Sainsbury’s a few weeks ago and I do genuinely believe this has changed my life for the better.


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about
diaristic ramblings about architecture, design, art, baking and shoes.

...all posts penned by Vikki, a twenty-something girl based in London (but currently having itchy feet and wanting to move back to Neuilly).

all these poorly taken photographs are indeed my own.


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